Thursday, June 28, 2007

X-Tina Takes Shanghai

Recently, the Shanghai Government took the bold move of looking past Christina Aguilera's DIRRRRTY lyrics, and allowed her to bring her 'Back to Basics' tour to Shanghai. There was some concern, as it was less than a year ago a Jay-Z concert scheduled for Shanghai was cancelled once the government figured out what his lyrics actually meant. While not huge fans of the former mouseketeer, a musical performance where we can understand the language is a real treat, so we loaded up our IPods with her newest CD (provided exclusively by our local pirated DVD shop) and bought tickets.





The show did not disappoint. No lip-synching and plenty of cool costume changes, circus performers, elaborate sets, and fantastic dancers. The latter had such an effect on Zach, he's now contemplating how he can parlay his banking career into back-up dancer.....watch out K-Fed...
















For all you US Weekly readers out there, we focused heavily on the 'is she or isn't she' expecting question. The post-show consensus was there was no true 'baby bump', just a very unfortunate pair of pants combined with a tight belt that would bunch a bit on even the tiniest of people.















The fans were in rare form, particularly during the ballads, as the Chinese seem to prefer love songs (particularly when they're Karaoke-ing or singing a capella in the streets). A neighboring seat mate seemed to be half asleep during parts of the concert, but at random intervals would perk up and scream 'I Love You Christina' at the top of his lungs. Glow sticks and lit-up devils ears (?) were out in full force, and one lucky fan managed to get her Hello Kitty doll picked up by the star.

Tuesday, June 19, 2007

THE “SH-OLLYWOOD” REPORTER



The stars shined brightly last Saturday at the red carpet opening ceremony of the 10th annual Shanghai International Film Festival at Shanghai’s Grand Theatre. Tiffany, Zach and their friend Meredith, aka THE THREE, were on hand to enjoy the legions of screaming fans massed along the street and the continuous rapid-fire camera flashes of the paparazzi, from inside the velvet rope. Thanks to insider connections and clout, none of which came from Zach, THE THREE were able to score highly-prized tickets to the opening ceremony and the celebrity-packed after-party on the Bund.

The opening ceremony was a chance to see some of Asia’s film stars walk the red carpet in all their glitz and glamour. While completely unknown to THE THREE, it was apparent by the increase in “screech factor” and intensity in flashbulbs who the more popular stars were. The runway procession did include two American stars, film star Sharon Stone and Michelle Rodriguez, star of the film “Girlfight” and TV show “Lost”. Interestingly, the evening’s Master of Ceremonies gave a brief description of each star as they walked the carpet, and gave an English translation for the two Americans. Sharon Stone’s introduction included something along the lines of “famous American sex symbol” and “naked film star”.

Inside the theater, the opening ceremony featured a few dance numbers, an award given to Maggie Cheung (from Jet Li’s “Hero” and Jackie Chan’s “Supercop”), the only Asian actor recognized by Zach, some very nice speeches in Chinese that only Meredith could understand, and a performance of Puccini’s “Nessun Dorma” by a Chinese opera singer, sung at a volume that led to Tiffany plugging her ears.

The highlight of the night was the even more exclusive after-party, the entrance to which was heavily guarded and covered with flash happy photographers shooting everybody that entered on the off-chance he or she was a celebrity, socialite or somehow famous. Though none of the above, THE THREE basked in the artificial glow of celebrity nonetheless.

Inside the party the atmosphere was as rare and stratified as China had to offer. The peak of the affair came when Tiffany was approached by a Chinese girl, aka THE FAN, who proceeded to gush compliments to Tiffany in an excited stream of Mandarin Chinese. While flattered by her apparent admiration, Tiffany unfortunately couldn’t understand why. When the language barrier became apparent, THE FAN switched to English and confessed to Tiffany that she loved her show. Tiffany, feeling glamorous from all the champagne and flashbulbs, ingeniously responded ‘You must be mistaken, I’m not an actress, I’m in marketing’. THE FAN was embarrassed when she realized that she had fallen victim to the common stereotype known as “They all look alike,” but Tiffany was unfazed and they proceeded to talk amiably with THE FAN about the actual TV star (a well-known Caucasian woman who spoke fluent Chinese) and her show.


Although THE THREE never saw Sharon Stone at the after party, and thus Zach never got to use his suave opening line of, "I loved you in ‘Bobby’!" (which he never saw), it was a memorable evening nonetheless, with memories of beautiful yet unknown celebrities, high fashion, legions of high-pitched shrieking fans, the attendant paparazzi, and a brief encounter with fame to carry with them for many days to come.

Monday, June 04, 2007

Capitalizing Communism


Growing up a kid in the 80's, the word 'communism' had extremely negative connotations. I wasn't quite sure why communists were bad, but they looked scary in Rocky movies, and Ronald Reagan sure didn't like them. I was convinced the reason red m&m's were no longer in production had more to do with their political party affiliation than an FDA food dye ban.

Flash forward twenty years. Both the Wall and communism fell in Eastern Europe, and the much feared 'Reds' have conveniently been replaced by Al Qaeida. But still, when I moved to China, I found it interesting to pull back the curtain and see how a real live communist country worked. Would everyone really wear gray mao suits and refer to each other as comrades? Would people laugh at silly tales of home ownership and mortgages? Would I be ridiculed coming from such a consumerist, capitalist culture and be routinely mocked because I had an MBA?

Well, I have to say, the political party has not lived up to the hype, at least in Shanghai. From what I've seen over the past 18 months, there's a whole lot of capitalism flying around everything from the real estate market to the stock market. Case in point, the 'Millionaire's Fair' that we recently attended. The event was held at the Shanghai Exhibition Center, a popular venue for communist party meetings. The weekend event was touted as offering a 'cornucopia of all the most beautiful and luxurious things the world has to offer....for the lover of the luxurious life'. We accepted free tickets from a client in order to attend and test the theory that if we were in a true communist country, the event would be empty. After all, there's no way the 1.3B Chinese citizens, allegedly living equal could declare 100% of the population 'millionaire status', considering the average Shanghainese salary is less than $500/mo.



Much to our surprise, there was a huge crowd clamouring at the gate to pay the $80 entrance fee.....



























The opening night event, dubbed 'Nuit Blanche', was filled with 'living art' and an appearance by Super Girl, the Chinese Equivalent of American Idol.












And what do Millionaires in China crave? Hotdogs?!?!?










Like many of our China experiences, this night was strange and not quite what we expected, but, as usual, provided much entertainment. Who would have thought, not more than 50 years after such communistic initiatives as the Great Leap Forward and the Cultural Revolution, a Millionaire's Fair would take place in China? I find it hard not to believe that Mao's not turning over in his temperature controlled mausoleum up in Beijing.

Friday, May 25, 2007

Get Fit, Play Darts

During a recent employee health check, it was brought to our HR department’s attention that our staff falls on the unhealthy side of the Shanghai average. As a response to get our employees in shape, our HR department organized a month's worth of activities to promote fitness. It’s always interesting for me to see a Chinese interpretation of corporate initiatives such as this. In my mind, a great way to improve staff health would be to provide gym membership discounts, pass out nicorette patches to the countless staff that smoke constantly, or organize a company run. What actually happened was a series of competitions that included the following:






See how many times a shuttlecock can be bounced on a badminton racket for 2 minutes...


















Darts (which was won by yours truly.....I guess all those bar games really do pay off)...















Bounce a huge, birdlike hacky-sack with your feet for two minutes...

















Badminton (the only event that actually made me break a sweat...kind of)















And the ever popular workout, Tug of War...












As you may have noticed, with the exception of the badminton, all events took place in our building's underground garage. The venue was less than ideal, considering the constant exhaust smell and frequent car alarms being set off. Fortunately, people barely noticed, as it wasn't much different than the traffic and honking filled streets of Shanghai. While I have a feeling the month of activities won't cause a huge reduction in our company's health care premiums, it sure was a lot of fun. And thanks to my fluke-ish dart competition win, my Chinese colleagues not only point and stare at me with admiration when I walk through the halls, but I am also the prize winner of a brand new backpack to hold all my 'fitness' gear (darts, ping pong paddle, etc.).

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

One Night in Bangkok...

One of the benefits of living in China is instead of having an annual Labor Day holiday, they have an annual Labor Week holiday in May. In order to avoid the congested Chinese tourist spots, we headed down to Thailand.







Our one night in Bangkok (ok, it technically was two) was surprisingly relaxing and not nearly as scandalous as the classic 80's song suggests. The traffic is just as bad, if not worse than Shanghai's, but the air seemed cleaner and the city was not filled with a proliferation of car horn honking. We spent the day cruising up and down the Chao Praya river seeing the Grand Palace and several of the Wats.



Plenty of traveling monks made the pilgrimage to the Grand Palace. Thailand is a predominantly Buddhist country. These guys were a big hit and had a crowd of picture snapping tourists (like us) eager to capture their group photo.

In an interesting contradiction to their religious majority, Thailand also is famous for its hard partying nightlife. Here, Tiffany tours the infamous "Cowboy Street", named after an American soldier named Cowboy who moved to Thailand after the Vietnam War to open a bar. The street now houses 25-30 raucous bars that blare music well into the wee hours of the night. I suppose the locals figure that you should feel free to misbehave, just be aware that karma will make you pay for it later!






We visited the beautiful Jim Thompson house, a collection of classic Thai architecture and southeast Asian art brought together by the mysterious Jim Thompson, an ex-CIA agent who lived in Thailand Jim is credited for developing the global market for Thai silk, and just disappeared one day in the late 1960's. To this day numerous conspiracy theories abound regarding his whereabouts.




Here we are in the Golden Buddha temple. As you can tell by the fact that only the top of Tiffany's head made it into the picture, the Golden Buddha is huge! Tiffany barely measures two toes high. All along the wall in front of the Buddha were buckets into which visitors dropped coins for good luck. Tiffany hogged most of them and secured about 75% of our combined good luck for herself.




Next stop, Chiang Mai in northern Thailand. We specifically travelled there to visit the Elephant Nature Park, which is sort of a rest & retirement home for elephants. In Thailand small villages might each own an elephant, and that elephant might be their major source of income, whether through logging work, transporting goods, or giving rides to tourists. Unfortunately, this results in some very tired, overworked elephants. An amazing Thai woman named Lek opened this park and said, "Give me your poor, your tired, your huddled massive elephants..." and either buys the elephants, or rents them, and actually pays villages the equivalent of what their elephant would earn, just so the elephants can rest, recover, or even give birth. The park has received a lot of international coverage, and recently hosted Meg Ryan, who filmed a documentary on the park. The program is staffed by plenty of volunteers, including day volunteers like ourselves. We had the unique opportunity to spend a day in the life of an elephant "mahoot", which is what they call elephant caretakers. We got to feed them, bathe them in the river, watch and observe their social behaviors, and generally get a better understanding of elephants' lives.

It might not come out in the photos, but it is hard to describe just how massive the elephants are. And surprisingly quiet. More than once someone would alert us to an approaching elephant, and we would turn to find a lumbering, 1000 lb+ animal upon us. Apparently, elephants only sleep about 4 hours a day. They are so large that if they slept too long, they would crush their own organs!


Elephants like wonderbread too! Here is Lek hand feeding an elephant. Don't worry, Tiffany and I didn't get anywhere close to sticking our hands in an elephant's mouth.






We did follow them into the river for their twice daily baths, though!






The scenery was stunning. The park was in a valley surrounded by dense green trees, and bordered on one end by the river, aka elephant bathtub.








The boy responsible for the brakes seemed a bit spooked by the white girl... Similar to Cambodia, these "tuk-tuk" taxis were the way to travel!




Our other day in Chiang Mai was spent learning to cook Thai food. We attended an outdoor cooking school, where the motto was "Kissin' do not last, cookin' do."






After each course was cooked we ate in their lovely garden, which included an herb garden and mango and tamarind trees.








Our final stop was Koh Samui, an island off of southern Thailand. It was the perfect way to end our trip. Three days of beach relaxation, reading, and of course, massage.







Our hotel was extremely romantic, and we walked into our room to find this touching, artistic display of two bath towels origami-ed into kissing swans, I think, and a double-wide rose petal heart with "Love" spelled out in the middle. I shed a tear or two at the sight.



And pure vacational bliss at last! We found a spa built into the hillside of the jungle and enjoyed an herbal steam bath, followed by two and a half hours of massage in a very cute little massage hut.





All in all, Thailand was another great getaway. We had beautiful sights, nice warm weather, delicious fresh food, and Tiffany got to play with animals in a safe, controlled environment. What more could we ask for?





Clearly Tiffany was a happy camper!

Monday, May 07, 2007

The Musical, Well-marked Island of Xiamen



A few weeks ago, Tiffany and I, along with our friend Meredith, flew down to the city of Xiamen for a weekend getaway.








Xiamen is located on the southeast coast of China and is one of its oldest ports. It was also one of the first cities forced open by the British following the Opium War, and as a result it still maintains a beautiful mix of European architecture.








We stayed on a small island off its coast, called Gulangyu, which is reachable only by a free ferry service. The hilly island is the main attraction, and with no cars or bikes allowed, we spent the weekend walking around, exploring the maze of small, winding roads covering the island. The residents of the island are also known for their musicality, and in fact, there was a piano instructor across the street from our bed and breakfast. So every morning we ate breakfast outside on the balcony overlooking the island, and listened to the graceful (and sometimes not so graceful) tones floating up for us to enjoy. Above are Tiffany and Meredith on the breakfast patio.
Per the usual China modus operandi, bright, colorful lights appeared to be attached to every fixed surface that could support them. We discovered this on our first night there, when a switch was flipped, and the island was seemingly transformed into a giant miniature golf course look-alike.




Four or five giant spotlights criss-crossed the night sky as well for added effect.







I also noticed some interesting signage during the weekend. Like chicken, 3.5 yuan (50 cents) for two chicken wings, or one chicken leg. Or 5 yuan (65 cents) for a leg/thigh combo. So naturally I tried paying 1.5 yuan for just the thigh, my favorite part of the chicken, but to no avail...





We were also forced to obey the wheel-barrow operating hours, and respectfully did not run around with our wheel-barrow after hours.








I was alerted by this sign to some sort of falling danger. As I walked over to examine it, I looked up and was promptly splattered by the well-known egrets, native to the island and unsympathetic toward non-Chinese speaking Chinese.






It was also my birthday weekend, and Tiffany surprised me by calling ahead to the B&B to arrange a cake.










Lots of lush greenery covered the island, and the air was so clean and filled with the sweet scent of spring time flowers that I ended up sneezing for a good part of the weekend, as my Shanghai, pollution hardened lungs were shocked by the sudden exposure to fresh environs.






Around every corner we found beautiful old homes under restoration.










Among the highlights of the weekend entertainment was this giant St. Bernard that Tiffany immediately bonded with.








And this happy musical duo, whom Tiffany did not bond with.





There was a nice little beachfront, where we were reminded of the Asian vanity for pale skin. Never do Chinese put on more clothes, and pull out more umbrellas, than when visiting the beach. Ack! Sun!

From far away, looking like the all-time whitest Asian, Tiffany was quite the envy of the crowd...

All in all it was a quiet, relaxing weekend, and perfect preparation for our big trip the following week to Thailand.